Monday, March 26, 2012

Out of the shadows and into the night...

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Owen Roe Winery:  2009 Ex Umbris   100% Syrah  14.8% alcohol

It is only appropriate that I review and evaluate this amazing red wine from Owen Roe, as it has become my go to Syrah.  This old world style wine is rich, vibrant and reflective of the wine’s name, which roughly translates to “out of the shadows”.  I had the opportunity to meet the owner and winemaker, David O’Reilly, during a wine dinner at Santé in Spokane, Washington.   His spoken enthusiasm and excitement of wine is clearly reflected in this finely crafted wine.  Ex Umbris was originally to be a one-time production from grapes in a vineyard that had been impacted by a wildfire, which resulted in a little more smoke than usual; it is now part of the Owen Roe regular production.

Evaluation:
Sight – the wine is visually clear with an intense and deep purple color at the core that yields to a thin youthful rim.  The ample legs are consistent with a more viscous wine and indicative of its higher alcohol content
Smell – on the nose the wine is clean and initially a little closed, giving way to smoke, pepper, earth, dark fruit and a hint of molasses.
Taste & Touch – the combination of vibrant light fruit with heavy dark cherry and plum balances with a tobacco and peppery finish.  The tannins soften for a velvety creamy mouth-feel; a completed mid-palate, not overpowered by acid, brings it all together for a long finish.  The wine has the feel of a medium plus bodied wine; however, the more than 14% alcohol doesn’t dominate the palate.

Conclusions:
This wine is a great example of the well balanced Syrah fruit being produced in Washington State (most of the fruit for this vintage came from the Columbia Valley, with lesser amounts from Horse Haven Hills and Yakima).  Enjoy a glass by itself or pair it with appetizers or a hearty meal; the characteristics of the wine match well with roasted and grilled meats.  Ex Umbris is ready to drink now or hold through 2016; the wine benefits from aeration and decanting.

This wine is clearly no longer in the shadows, although sometimes it seems like you may have to slip into the shadows to find someone willing to part with a bottle of this amazing Syrah.
Price: $24-$30 (retail)  $44-$68 (restaurant)

Other notes of interest:
Wine Spectator – 93 points and listed as No.25 on the Top 100 Wines of 2011 list.


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