Tuesday, April 24, 2012

A fitting offering to it's Greek God namesake ...

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Arbor Crest Wine Cellars: 2009 Dionysus Meritage Red Wine    
Columbia Valley          70% Cabernet Sauvignon        13.8% Alcohol


I discovered this beautifully blended wine while doing a little research for my article on Meritage wines in Washington.  Arbor Crest was started in 1982. The winery is rich in family history and a continued passion for creating hand-crafted wines.  Kristina Mielke-van Löben Sels, the winemake and daughter of of the founders, and her husband John bring to the winery their experience in California.  Kristina was the associate winemaker at Ferrari-Carano of Sonoma.

Named for the Greek God of Wine, Dionysus, the 2009 Meritage is a blend of Cabernet Sauvignon (70%), Merlot (15%), Cabernet Franc (10%), Malbec (4%) and Petit Verdot (1%).  The grapes are from Washington State's Columbia Valley and includes fruit harvested from the Dioynsus Block 16A which is one of the oldest vineyards in the state, as well, there is fruit from the Wahluke Slope Vineyards.  While 2009 summer was hot and dry, the cool fall provided for small balanced fruit and overall excellent growing conditions in the region.

Evaluation:
Sight - the wine is visually clear with a bright reflection, it has garnet core bleeding out to ruby red and finishing with a youthful rim indicative of the wines age.  Defined legs let you know this is a moderately viscous wine, reflective of the alcohol labeling of 13.8%, and letting us know that we should expect a full-bodied wine.
Smell - on the nose the wine is clean, fault free, and initially a little delicate, or as some may say tight.  As the wine begins to open, the predominance of Cabernet Sauvignon is evident, and the nose becomes more moderate.  Cedar gives way to dark fruit and a hint of spice indicative of some time on French Oak.  A touch of tobacco and dark brown sugar round out the experience.
Taste & Touch - the wine is full-bodied in the mouth.  The cedar gives way to cooked black-cherry and plum following the dark fruit on the nose.  The oak's spice comes through as nutmeg seemingly to soften the youthful tannins.  The wine is still a bit young, but the signs are all there that it will continue to develop over the next few years; just when you think the wine is done, the flavors try to come back and fill your mid-palate for a long finish.

Conclusions:
A beautiful example of what "Meritage" wine is all about, handcrafted wines reflective of Bordeaux yet standing on their own merit.  The initial thought is to pair the wine with meat, as I did with a filet mignon, and certainly a rich wine sauce of the same base. It can also be paired with wild game, such as elk and bison.  Paired with roasted duck would make for an elegant evening.  The wine is coming into its own and you can enjoy it now, but if you can lay it down for a few more years your diligence will be rewarded.  As for me, I always like to buy one for now and a few to cellar.  Optimally I think the wine will show its best  2016-2020.
Price: $35-$50 (retail)  $75-$100 (restaurant)

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