Every time I suggest cooking fresh fish I get the look, “Really, fresh fish?” Fish can be tricky to prepare and I do believe that everyone should know how to cook a whole fish, head and all. So, for all of you who have a fish cooking aversion here is the answer: Parchment paper packets.
The fish is cooked in little packets that you make out of parchment, they can be as rustic or fancy as you like. As really cool plating presentation is to serve the packet on the plate and let everyone open theirs at the table.
Before we talk too much about plating we need to talk fish. This works great with just about any fish. My favorite is halibut, but I have also used salmon, swai, trout, red snapper, orange roughy, and sole. Catfish would work, but for me it should only be served fried or blackened. I would stay away from fish like tuna that work better with high heat. My general rule is: if I would poach it, then I will package it. Unless I have a craving for something specific or planning a menu, I generally decide what fish to buy when I get to the Poissonnier or fish market. I like to buy whatever is fresh and if possible not frozen.
On the menu tonight is halibut because it was on sale and looked fabulous. Halibut season runs from about May through September. To prepare the halibut I first gave it a quick rinse under cool water. I ran my hand along both sides, more out of habit, to check for scales and any bones. Gently dry the both side with a clean paper towel. For this cooking process I go ahead and remove the skin. Cut the fish into 2-2.5 inch sections or so that all of the pieces are approximately the same size and thickness; this will yield you portions that are approximately 6oz each. I save the left overs to make a little Ceveche snack or canapé appetizer. You can prep the fish ahead of time, up to a day before, just place the portioned pieces in a plastic bag or sealed container and refrigerate. Just remove the fish about 20 minutes before you cook; I usually pull them out of the refrigerator about the time I start getting everything else I need together.
The package: For each piece of fish you will need a piece of parchment paper that is approximately 3 times as wide as the portioned piece of fish. So for our cuts we will use a piece that is about 6 inches wide. The length should be twice that, so 12 inches. So we have a piece of parchment that is 6x12 inches. Fold the paper in half so that it is now 6x6.
The seasoning: This is a delicate dish, so the seasoning needs to be delicate. Rub the portions with a little olive oil to just coat and lightly salt both sides, and a little pepper on the “non-show” side (that’s the side that will be sitting on the place so that the fish doesn't have little black flecks on it). Place the individual pieces on the parchment in the center of one of the 6x6 sections. Place a sprig of thyme and ½ a bay leaf (or small leaf) on top covered with a slice of lemon.
To seal the packets you have two options, neither includes the use of a stapler. Whisk an egg together with a little water to make a wash. Brush all of the parchment edges with the wash and seal together over the fish. You can trim up any unsightly edges. The other option is what I call the “origami” method. Starting at one end start folding little sections over on top of one another, it sort of looks like a pie crust. You may want to practice this option, I use it if there are just two of us for dinner and for large parties I use a wash.
To cook the fish, place the packet(s) on a sheet pan and bake in a pre-heated 375 degree oven for 12 minutes. If you remove the fish from the packet to plate, remove the herbs and lemon slice, but save the juices and pour them over the portion once plated. Be careful when opening hot packets, as there will be some steam that escapes that could burn you.
You can get a little creative with the sides, but remember this is a delicate dish – no mash potatoes. I like it with quinoa or wild rice. For a little Mediterranean twist I use couscous. Asparagus is a great vegetable for both flavor and color, but fresh green beans/haricots vert would be just fine.
Beverages: For a wine pairing we have to look to the whites. Any red, worth drinking, would overpower the fish and likely result in a metalic taste when served with this delicate white fish. Look for something that is bright - meaning a wine that is a little higher in acid. You could probably get away with an Old World style Chardonnay (no oak and not overly malolactic). I prefer a Pino Grigio or Loire Valley white. Tonight we enjoyed a beautiful Voignier from
Becker Vineyards out of Texas. The hints of floral and slight minerality paired well with the fish and wild rice. As always, look to match the wine with the main protein, in our case white and light.
Don’t let fish be intimidating, this an easy and nearly foolproof method of cooking whether it for a party of 12 or just you.
