Working too much, dashboard dining with protein shakes for breakfast and lunch, and living in hotels, all the while realizing I am technically homeless - everything’s in storage, I needed a break.
When I envisioned taking some time off, I was thinking the Hamptons, tasting wine and sampling the local fare; however, things are still a bit torn up from Hurricane Sandy and I need a change of scenery, so I’m off to the left-ish coast. My destination is wine country, not California, but Washington State.
Walla Walla is located in Southeast Washington State along the Oregon border and becoming known for its amazing vineyard sites and the wines they produce in the Columbia AVA and several sub-AVA's or the region.. It's winter, so it’s cold, but also the winemakers who are still in town aren't crazy busy or too stressed out and have time to talk – don’t ever bother a winemaker or vineyard manager at harvest time unless you are working there, even then it better be important.
I love wine country in the late fall and early winter. Post-harvest, the leaves change color and in winter, as the frost settles on the vines, there is an indescribable peacefulness. I think late fall and winter are the best times to go wine tasting, especially with someone special - although spring barrel is pretty fun too. I’ll let the pictures speak for me, there is just something romantic and intimate about the sleeping vines in winter.
I returned to one of my favorite bed and breakfast locations – The
Vine and Roses Burgundy Suite. We had the place to ourselves, the manager literally handed us a key and said “call if you need anything and I’ll see you at breakfast”. We were for want of nothing. The rooms are perfect, fireplace and all. If anyone is looking for a good B&B review, I would be happy to go back and write about it…
After checking in, we made a quick visit to
L’Ecole N° 41 Winery just on the edge of town. I always enjoy chatting with the tasting room staff, no names mentioned to protect the guilty, but the wine was excellent and we had a great conversation about goats - I know what you’re thinking, but if you’re going to make goat cheese there is only one way to get the milk, you have to milk the goats.
My recommended wines from the L'Ecole is always their Estate Luminesce, a white Bordeaux style blend based on Sémillon. It is a great aperitif wine or starter with appetizers, like my lobster canapés, but holds its own throughout a meal.
Dinner was kept to wine, cheese, artisan meats, and some very good company that kept me up a little too late. The next day we had meetings with Dunham Cellars, Pepper Bridge, and a couple of other wineries. Before we embarked on our day’s journey, we had the most amazing breakfast at the Vine and Roses – waffles, bacon, breads and the list goes on happily. With our stomachs full, it was time to head out, albeit cautiously. For those who don’t live in the region, they get freezing fog and frost that results in ice on the roadway and everything else. It looks like snow, but you have to drive like it's ice, and it makes for an incredible site.
So back to why I’m in Walla Walla – wine drinking; first stop is
Dunham Cellars. The tasting room manager wasn't the most welcoming, but after a couple of tastings she relaxed a little. For me, Dunham is all about their red blend Trutina. Unlike L’Ecole and Pepper Bridge, Dunham is not a winery experience. Located near the airport in an industrial park, your purpose there is only to taste and buy wine – some good wine; which for me was fine, but I don’t want text and emails about that.
Next up was
Pepper Bridge Winery, which also includes
Amavi Cellars. We arrived at the winery and were immediately welcomed by the tasting room attendant and then Ray Goff, a partner in Pepper Bridge and Amavi. I need to take a moment for a sidebar here. Ray is a fellow Texan, who grew up farming along the Gulf Coast and even has a daughter named Travis. He worked in the beer industry for many years and when he retired was ready to make wine. There are many people, including myself, very happy that he made that decision.
Pepper Bridge’s Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot are a couple of my favorite wines; that’s saying a lot since I am not really known as a Merlot drinker. Holding its own, Amavi’s Syrah is also a favorite – perfect to drink alone or with a great meal. Amavi is in no way a second tier to Pepper Bridge, rather the winery produces the same quality of wines, just in a different style. Ray gave us a personal tour of the winery, which was a great experience. Next time you visit, see if you can get a tour or at the very least ask to see the barrel room (pictured above). When I have my winery I hope I can create the same “feel” that I experience with every visit to Pepper Bridge and Amavi. I could write an entire entry on these wineriers – perhaps I should with another visit next fall.
The couple of days in Walla Walla were much needed, but much too short. There is so much more to experience in this emerging region; I predict that the wines of this region will one day surpass some of the cult wines of California and Europe – there is just something special about the terroir! If you need a wine escape, Walla Walla needs to be on the short list.
