Getting Lost in Glacier: Metaphorically Speaking ...

The good news is I have a place to live, other than a hotel or my truck - which is actually quite comfortable; the bad news is that I can’t move in until April 1st.  So I have a couple of options – couch surf in Spokane, Seattle, and Portland for the next month or head out for a little snowshoeing.  It is still snowing, the average temperature is something like 20 degrees, so of course I am going truck camping and snowshoeing.

Gary, my partner in crime for brewing and vinting, hooked me up with the owners of the North Idaho Mountain Brew in Wallace, Idaho.  Who wouldn't want to spend a few days camping at a brewery? Located next the brewery is a RV park and some simple cabins.  Upon arrival they set me up in a cabin with a heater and then we moved to a tour of the brewery – beer in hand.

The weather didn't cooperate for hiking or shoeing - rain, so I spent some time at the brewery and checking out the rest of Wallace.  Okay if you've been to Wallace you know that takes about a half a day – but there is a new wine bar coming to town. The brewery is a must stop, located just outside of downtown and not to be confused with the "Wallace Brewery"; check out their Loft Honey Lager with any one of the great food item selections.  Note: As the brewery is also a restaurant, they are kid friendly.

Of course the day I decided to leave I woke up to six inches of snow, but it was time to head out to Montana.  I took the cutoff at St. Regis to Flathead Lake, a beautiful drive; most of the time I was locked into 4-wheel drive with snow and ice on the road until just outside of Flathead Lake.  I made my way up past the lake into Kalispell and then into Whitefish, Montana.  I found a hotel and settled in.  I went to the local climbing store and picked up a topography and trail map of Glacier National Park.  It was also a good time to gained some insight into the park and trails from the locals.

I headed up to the park and checked in at the Ranger Stations – which was actually closed.  I told them where I would be car camping and headed down the snow covered road amidst a bit of a blizzard.  I settled into my camp site and called it a night.

 The next day was perfect, fresh snow, clearing skies, and the temperature was above zero.  I scoped out several trail heads and mapped out my next two weeks of shoeing.  That evening as I returned to camp I was greeted by a Ranger, initially he was concerned that I was camping in the winter, but after seeing my gear and layers of clothing he was confident that I knew what I was doing – I asked that he check on me periodically just in case, in the immortal words of my friend Kathleen, “A bear didn't eat my ass”.

I spent the next two weeks shoeing out of the Lake McDonald (western side) and the St. Mary Lake (eastern side) areas of the park.  The solitude was refreshing; I actually went four days on the St. Mary side of the park without seeing or talking to anyone. Most days I didn't see anyone on the trail; on weekends I would run into some fellow snowshoers and cross country skiers making their way up the Going to the Sun road.

I met some amazing people, several older couples – I’m talking in their 70’s and one couple who were both in their early 80’s.  I can only hope that I will be shoeing in Glacier when I’m in my 80’s.

Okay, I have to admit.  I bailed out one day.  I woke up about 4:30am, there was nearly a foot of snow on the ground and it was -16 inside the truck.  I had to engage the remote start to heat up the interior before I gained the courage to leave my sleeping bag and use my Costco card to scrape the ice off the interior of the windows.  It seemed like a good time to do laundry, take a shower, have a good meal – and get warm.Other than the one day, I have to say experiencing Glacier in the winter was nothing less than spectacular, something everyone should experience.  You don’t necessary have to camp, you can stay in Kalispell or Whitefish and drive up for the day.

The rest of the trip was great as I headed up towards the Canadian border, through Libby, Montana and down for an overnight in Thompson Falls.  I’ll make my way back through Wallace for a stop at the brewery, a quick date in Kellogg, Idaho and then into Spokane.  If my timing is right, I should arrive just in time to sign my lease and move in.

Central Food: A room with a view ...

Happy to be back in the Pacific Northwest, especially the Spokane Coeur d'Alene area.  I recently checked out a new restaurant in the Kendall Yards district of Spokane called Central Food.  Thank you Esther and Gary for joining me and Arika for shooting the photos with me. You can read my review and more about our experience in this month's Spokane Coeur d'Alene Living Magazine pages 182-185.

Click here to read it at spokanecda.com

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Valentine's Day: I'm single so making hard cider seems logical ...

I escaped the East Coast just in time to beat the real winter weather after working through Hurricane Sandy – which was worse than Irene the year before. Making my way to Texas, it was time to buy a new truck.  My old F-150 Lariat had served me well; over 250,000 miles and had been to every state except Hawaii and Alaska.  I picked up my new F-150 on New Year’s Eve and proceeded to put 10,000 miles on it on my journey back to Washington.

I had to be back in Spokane to complete a restaurant review of Central Food, a new restaurant in the Kendall Yards area - look for the article in the March 2013 Spokane Coeur d'Alene Living, and find a place to live, but it was also a good time to do a little “vinting” – no not venting, I’m talking about making some hard cider (see Hard Cider: Bringing back an American Tradition).  Happily, Gary was ready to make a few experimental batches in his basement; after all I am still homeless.

I used a good quality “whole” juice product from Washington for this batch.  I added some pears, seeds removed, and crushed.  For my yeast I went with Champagne style to soften the end product.  Everything was combined in a fermentor, I pitched the yeast, and crossed my fingers.

14 days later, the airlock stopped bubbling and it appeared that yeast had done their work – converting the sugar to alcohol.  I took a hygrometer reading of the finished product and estimated that alcohol content to by around 7.5% - fairly high for a cider; however, I fermented it dry, meaning that I let the yeast convert all of the sugar to alcohol and leaving almost no residual sugar.

I ran the finished cider through a coffee filter and bottled it in my Groslch bottles.  The finished product is a crisp, slightly acidic, but clean cider. The nose was all apples and the palate matched. For my next batch, I need to do a little more research on varietals and seek some guidance, for that I will be heading to Mount Vernon, Washington where the University’s cider apple research facility is located. For now, I have some great cider to share.

Hard Cider: Reviving an American Tradition ...

As many of you know I am a homebrewer in addition to my love for wine.  I would probably make my own spirits, but right now it is just a little illegal to run a still out of your house.  What you may not know is that I have a real passion for hard cider.  This amazing beverage is great cold in the summer and warm in the winter.

I was recently given the opportunity to write a little bit about hard ciders in the December/January issue of  Spokane Coeur d'Alene Living Magazine: A great discussion of the history and styles can be found on pages 205-206.  Click here to read it at spokanecda.com.

Furloughed: A weekend escape to Walla Walla ...

Working too much, dashboard dining with protein shakes for breakfast and lunch, and living in hotels, all the while realizing I am technically homeless - everything’s  in storage, I needed a break.

When I envisioned taking some time off, I was thinking the Hamptons, tasting wine and sampling the local fare; however, things are still a bit torn up from Hurricane Sandy and I need a change of scenery, so I’m off to the left-ish coast.  My destination is wine country, not California, but Washington State.

Walla Walla is located in Southeast Washington State along the Oregon border and becoming known for its amazing vineyard sites and the wines they produce in the Columbia AVA and several sub-AVA's or the region..  It's winter, so it’s cold, but also the winemakers who are still in town aren't crazy busy or too stressed out and have time to talk – don’t ever bother a winemaker or vineyard manager at harvest time unless you are working there, even then it better be important.

 I love wine country in the late fall and early winter.  Post-harvest, the leaves change color and in winter, as the frost settles on the vines, there is an indescribable peacefulness.  I think late fall and winter are the best times to go wine tasting, especially with someone special - although spring barrel is pretty fun too.  I’ll let the pictures speak for me, there is just something romantic and intimate about the sleeping vines in winter.

I returned to one of my favorite bed and breakfast locations – The Vine and Roses Burgundy Suite. We had the place to ourselves, the manager literally handed us a key and said “call if you need anything and I’ll see you at breakfast”.  We were for want of nothing.  The rooms are perfect, fireplace and all.  If anyone is looking for a good B&B review, I would be happy to go back and write about it…

After checking in, we made a quick visit to L’Ecole N° 41 Winery just on the edge of town.  I always enjoy chatting with the tasting room staff, no names mentioned to protect the guilty, but the wine was excellent and we had a great conversation about goats - I know what you’re thinking, but if you’re going to make goat cheese there is only one way to get the milk, you have to milk the goats.


My recommended wines from the L'Ecole is always their Estate Luminesce, a white Bordeaux style blend based on Sémillon.  It is a great aperitif wine or starter with appetizers, like my lobster canapés, but holds its own throughout a meal.

Dinner was kept to wine, cheese, artisan meats, and some very good company that kept me up a little too late.  The next day we had meetings with Dunham Cellars, Pepper Bridge, and a couple of other wineries. Before we embarked on our day’s journey, we had the most amazing breakfast at the Vine and Roses – waffles, bacon, breads and the list goes on happily.  With our stomachs full, it was time to head out, albeit cautiously. For those who don’t live in the region, they get freezing fog and frost that results in ice on the roadway and everything else.  It looks like snow, but you have to drive like it's ice, and it makes for an incredible site.

So back to why I’m in Walla Walla – wine drinking; first stop is Dunham Cellars.  The tasting room manager wasn't the most welcoming, but after a couple of tastings she relaxed a little.  For me, Dunham is all about their red blend Trutina.  Unlike L’Ecole and Pepper Bridge, Dunham is not a winery experience. Located near the airport in an industrial park, your purpose there is only to taste and buy wine – some good wine; which for me was fine, but I don’t want text and emails about that.

Next up was Pepper Bridge Winery, which also includes Amavi Cellars. We arrived at the winery and were immediately welcomed by the tasting room attendant and then Ray Goff, a partner in Pepper Bridge and Amavi.  I need to take a moment for a sidebar here.  Ray is a fellow Texan, who grew up farming along the Gulf Coast and even has a daughter named Travis.  He worked in the beer industry for many years and when he retired was ready to make wine.  There are many people, including myself, very happy that he made that decision.
Pepper Bridge’s Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot are a couple of my favorite wines; that’s saying a lot since I am not really known as a Merlot drinker.  Holding its own, Amavi’s Syrah is also a favorite – perfect to drink alone or with a great meal.  Amavi is in no way a second tier to Pepper Bridge, rather the winery produces the same quality of wines, just in a different style.  Ray gave us a personal tour of the winery, which was a great experience.   Next time you visit, see if you can get a tour or at the very least ask to see the barrel room (pictured above). When I have my winery I hope I can create the same “feel” that I experience with every visit to Pepper Bridge and Amavi.  I could write an entire entry on these wineriers – perhaps I should with another visit next fall.

The couple of days in Walla Walla were much needed, but much too short.  There is so much more to experience in this emerging region; I predict that the wines of this region will one day surpass some of the cult wines of California and Europe – there is just something special about the terroir!  If you need a wine escape, Walla Walla needs to be on the short list.

An Italian Inspired Evening: Focaccia and Bruschetta ...

I’ve been on the road for a while, but the opportunity for wine and a light appetizer presented itself with some good friends (although at this point cooking with strangers would have been fine too – the traveling is getting to me).  For my contribution I was asked to do my bruschetta, which means I have to make bread.

The meaning of bruschetta for me is any tomato based or inspired topping on toasted bread.  Some will argue it is the bread itself and others that it is the traditional topping.  Whatever makes you happy, just pronounce it correctly: brü-ˈske-tə

So let’s get started on the bread.  If you aren't up to making your own bread, just close out the page and forget about moving forward.  I’m just kidding.  You can use any artisan style bread, even a French style baguette – as Italians around the world cringe!  For me I have a great focaccia recipe that I use for a variety of shapes.  For our purposes, we will need more of a small rounded loaf/baguette.  You can shape the dough after the first rise. ( For my focaccia recipe see   )

Once I have the bread out of the oven cooling, I prepare the topping ingredients.  It just works for me and keeps all of the ingredients fresh.  For the tomatoes, I use Roma. Figure one Roma tomato will make 2-3 finished portions.  For a more refined topping you can peel the tomatoes first and then cut and de-seed them.  Ultimately you want the tomato cut into pieces equal to a small dice (that is a culinary measurement, not gaming dice). Mince some garlic; figure one clove will yield 4-6 finished portions depending on your garlic liking.

About this time the bread should have cooled enough to be prepared.  Portion the bread into slices that are a little more than ¼ inch.  You need the bread slices thick enough to hold the topping, but you don’t want a big thick piece of bread so that is all you taste.  The bread is merely the conduit by which to carry the topping to your mouth.

Next, put a little olive oil and butter in a pan and bring it up to about medium high.  If it starts smoking it’s way too hot.  The idea is to just coat the bread and crisp it, not to fry it.  Cook both sides and then place the pieces on a wire rack over a sheet pan that is oven safe.  Place into a pre-heated 250 degree oven while you bring the topping together, don’t forget about it!

If the pan you used to prepare the bread is clean, meaning not burnt, brush out any leftover pieces of bread and add a little olive oil (about a 1/2 tsp per tomato used) over medium low heat.  Add the minced garlic and let it commingle for about 10 minutes, if the garlic starts turning colors, pull it off the heat and reduce your burner setting.  We want to soften the garlic and infuse the oil; burnt garlic is not good eats.  Add the diced tomatoes and toss to coat.  Cook for about 5-8 minutes, less if you like your tomatoes more firm and longer is you like them mushy.  While that is cooking, chiffinod (role up the leaves and cut into thin bands) half a large leaf of basil per finished portion.  Remove the bread from the oven.  Add the basil to the tomato garlic mixture and toss off the heat. Add salt as needed, I generally use a pinch for a mixture that serves 8 portions.

You have a couple of options for plating.  For a large group you can place the topping in a suitable and decorative bowl with the bread on a plate next to it.  Your guest can make their own bruschetta fresh and you don’t have to worry about the bread getting soggy.  If you are serving the appetizer or it is a plated appetizer, place a generous amount of topping on each piece of bread and plate 2-3 slices per guest. Finish the bruschetta portions with a garnish of finely grated Parmesan or Pecorino cheese.

The last hike of the season - Riverside State Park

The days are getting shorter and its about that time when I have to head east for my other work, but there is still time to share one more of my favorite local hiking areas.  Just on the edge of the City of Spokane, along the river, is a great state park.



Riverside State Park is the State's second largest at approximately 10,000 acres.  You can hike, picnic, camp, and run the river. Located minutes from downtown Spokane, you are magically transported to a rural setting that could easily be 100 miles away.

A series of trails, some marked better than others, takes you along both banks of the Spokane River and includes the Little Spokane River.  Mountain bike and equestrian trails are also available inside the park, which connects with the Centennial Trail, a bike and walking trail that runs more than 60 miles from Nine Mile Falls in Washington to Higgins Point on Lake Coeur d'Alene in Idaho.