Monday, April 16, 2012

Not my parent's rosé...

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Bonny Doon Vineyard: 2010 Vin Gris De Cigare
71% Grenache   16% Roussane  11% Grenache blanc   2% Mourvèdre      12.8% alcohol

I was looking for something different and certainly found it in this beautiful dry rosé from Bonny Doon.  In my search for a wine to pair with this weekends Moroccan feast, I wanted something light enough to go with the couscous, yet still hold its own against my pastilla appetizer.  I wanted a rosé in the style of the wines actually being produced in Morocco. Yes, they make some splendid wines; however, they are not something that can easily be found here (or there or anywhere).


So, I looked to the varietals that were being used in Morocco and thought about the influence in cuisine and culture that the regions shares with Spain and the Grenache grape.  What I didn't want was a classic 1970's Spanish  rosé; ah yes, the memories of Sunday dinner with the bottle of Lancers.  The result was Bonny Doon's Vin Gris.

Located in Santa Cruz, California, Bonny Doon has been producing wine since the late 70's under the guidance of wine maker Randall Graham.  The vineyard site is off the beaten path, South of San Francisco and hidden in the coastal mountains.  The region is known more for great surf breaks than the hot spot of grapes, but don't let that fool you.  The unique climate and soil composition - terroir - makes for some exciting and interesting wines.

Evaluation:
Sight - the wine is visually clear with a bright reflection and an almost amber core giving way to a youthful peach rim.  The legs are moderate as the viscosity is more than most white wines, letting you know it is every bit of 12.8% alcohol.
Smell - on the nose the wine is clean, free of any faults.  As the wine warms a bouquet of apple blossoms and fresh fruit fills your senses.  This is about crisp fresh strawberry and cherry, but step back, pause, breath in again and you might just find that hint of mint in the background (the reason I wanted to pair it with Moroccan food).
Taste & Touch - the wine is light to medium bodied, making me think the viscosity is saying more about a little bit more alcohol, but pleasantly so.  The fresh berries on the nose give way to more citrus flavors and some nice minerality.  Initially the wine seemed a little light on the acid, or as we say "flabby" for the minerality (that wet stone flavor we like so much); however, when paired with the food, it complimented nicely and balanced out.  Fermented dry, there is no hint of residual sugar.

Conclusions:
This is a fun well balanced wine that should make us all want to rediscover the world of rosé wines.  The balance of Grenache with Roussane creates a food worthy wine.  Many will enjoy it by itself as an apéritif, but it is a wine to be enjoyed with food.  Whether a light appetizer, summer salad, or main course, you won't be disappointed.  The wine is at its peak performance, so the time to drink is now through the end of the year.
Price: $11-$15 (retail) $18-28 (restaurant)

Other notes of interest:
Wine Advocate - 90 points

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