Tuesday, June 5, 2012

And for something a little different ...

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Sokol  Blosser Winery:  Evolution, 15th Edition
9 Varietal White Blend        12% Alcohol














On a recent outing I was looking for something cool and crisp for a warm afternoon.  It just wasn't a red wine moment, so I purused the white wine selections and came across this interesting named wine from Oregon.  I must say I am a little familiar with Sokol Blosser Winery, but have never had the opportunity to enjoy their non-vintage Evolution blend.

Appropriately named, Evolution, is a culmination of sifting through numerous grape varieties to blend together just 9 in harmony.  Previous editions have been labeled "Lucky"; however, I feel certain that with the attention to detail in all Sokol Blosser wines, there was a bit a science behind the selections.  Either way, I am glad they decided to take the journey that resulted in this great white blend.

The winery is located in Dundee, Oregon with the vineyards in the same region, which is part of Oregon's Willamette Valley.  A cool growing region, white wines build a nice crisp acid that balances with the richness of the unique soil of the region.  However, the wine is not labeled with the Willamette Valley AVA or Oregon regional designation.  This means that the more than 15% of the grapes are from outside of the Valley and more than 25% of the grapes are from outside of the state.

While the exact blend is closely held by those in the inner circle, I made a best effort to pick out the grape varietal profiles.  As the wine changes temperature, hits the air, and fills your mouth each component reveals itself to you.  The 9 varietals that make up the blend are:  Pinot Gris, Muller-Thurgau, White Riesling, Semillon, Muscat Canelli, Gewurztraminer, Pinot Blanc, Chardonnay, and Sylvaner.   The Pinot Gris is most evident followed by the aromatic floral elements of the Sémillon and Gewurtztraminer, with Chardonnay helping to round out the body. The wine is similar to the Edelzwicker wines of Alsace in France; however, don't be confused - this is a much more elegant wine than many of the Edelzwickers.

Evaluation:
Sight - the wine is visually clear with a star bright reflectivity.  The light straw cores cuts to a golden youthful rim.  The moderate legs indicate a viscosity closer to 13% alcohol, indicative of an expectation for a medium plus body on the palate.
Smell - the wine was a little closed (served a little too cold), but as I warmed it with my hands it opened up nicely and was clean, free of any faults.  The initial nose is peach blossom and white pear, giving a hint that perhaps Pinot Gris is in the mix.  As the wine warmed and opened the floral component of rose water peeked through from the Gewurztraminer rounded out with crisp tropical citrus fruits.
Taste & Touch - the wine is medium bodied in the mouth, the acid pulls the body back from getting to heavy.  The lychee and pink grapefruits, reminds me of Texas Ruby reds, bring forward the Muscat to the palate, but the pleasant mineral aspect of the wine hints towards the Sémillon.  The fruit forward nose is carried into the palate with crisp pear and melons.

Conclusions: 
In the end you have a complex fruit foward, nicely acidic, and medium bodied wine.  The alcohol and roundness will hold up to a main course, but to really enjoy all the wine has to offer pair it with an appetizer or just enjoy a glass by itself on the veranda. Think light seafood dishes or spice; it would go great with a lobster canapé (see Cooking with friends...).   Asian foods, including sushi would be a nice pairing.  The wine is certainly a drink now and I wouldn't hold it more than 12 months; as if anyone could show that much restraint.
Price: $13-$17 (retail)   $25-38 (restaurant)

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